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Travels in Greece
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Image from page 96 of “The near East; Dalmatia, Greece and Constantinople” (1913)
Travels in Greece
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Identifier: neareastdalmatia00hich
Title: The near East; Dalmatia, Greece and Constantinople
Year: 1913 (1910s)
Authors: Hichens, Robert Smythe, 1864-1950Guérin, Jules Vallée, 1866-1946, ill
Subjects: Dalmatia (Croatia) — Description and travelGreece — Description and travelAthens (Greece) — Description and travelIstanbul (Turkey) — Description and travel
Publisher: New York : The Century Co.
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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Text Appearing Before Image:
of the East, although theGreeks were the people who saved Europe frombeing dominated by the races of Asia. All about you—you have not yet reached Phalerum—you seecountry that looks like the beginning of a desert,that holds a fascination of the desert. The fewtrees stand up like carved things. The small. East-ern-looking houses, many of them with flat roofs,earth-colored, white, or tinted with mauve and palecolors, scattered casually and apparently withoutany plan over the absolutely bare and tawny ground,look from a distance as if they, too, were carved, as ifthey were actually a part of the substance of theirenvironment, not imposed upon it by an outsideforce. The moving figure of a man, wearing thewhite fustanella, has the strange beauty of an Arabmoving alone in the vast sands. And yet there issomething here that is certainly not of Europe, butthat is not wholly of the East—something very deli-cate, very pure, very sensitive, very individual, free 54 > X >n o ■-0 O r

Text Appearing After Image:
IN AND NEAR ATHENS from the Eastern drowsiness, from the heavy East-ern perfume which disposes the soul of man toinertia. It is the exquisite, vital, one might almost say in-tellectual, freshness of Greece which, between Eu-rope and Asia, preserves its eternal dewdrops—those dewdrops which still make it the land of theearly morning-. Your carriage turns to the right, and in a momentyou are driving along the shore of a sea withoutwave or even ripple. In the distance, across the pur-ple water, is the calm mountain of the island of^gina. Over there, along the curve of the sandybay, are the clustering houses of old Phalerum. Thisis new Phalerum, with its wooden bath-houses, itsone great hotel, its kiosks and cafes, its shadelessplage, deserted now except for one old gentlemanwho, like almost every Greek all over the country, isat this moment reading a newspaper in the sun. Is there any special charm in new Phalerum, bareof trees, a little cockney of aspect, any exceptionalbeauty in this

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